Funhouse Plastic Guards $25Cut from PETG, these guards help protect your plastics from ball damage. The 10-piece set includes:
Slingshot plastic left
Slingshot plastic right
Shooter lane plastic (cut to size)
Hot Dog Plastic
Lower Rudy lane plastic
Upper Rudy lane plastic (cut to size)
Balloon scoop plastic (cut to size)
Rectangular and cloud-shaped mirror corner protectors
Pictures of the guards installed.
Funhouse
Enhanced Mirror Bracket $24This new bracket fully supports the mirror, supporting it against airballs from the front and protecting it from bounces from below. 20GA stainless steel. Note that these are a dull to medium finish. The large picture (click through) shows the new bracket underneath an old one.
This reproduction ring restores the locking holes. It ships in a kit with software ROM version L1AT.
Full kit: Locking ring and L1AT ROM $60
For
reference only and for the earlier hardware version of the kit,here's Don's
circuit board. the kit includes the simple wiring harness that goes back to the
CPU board in the head, this board and the ROM. The board creates a phantom
switch, and does not need to be removed to reverse the mod - just replace the
EPROM.
Don supports the kit. You can email him if you have questions.
$18This reproduction lagoon plastic is cut from dark green acrylic plastic. It is a very close match to the original, and a perfect fit.
This
little board connects to a 9V battery (not included) and glows in the
presence of infrared light. When it is close to a working IR emitter, it
glows very bright. The tester is small enough that it can reach most
places that a ball goes to inside a machine: you can fish it around on
the battery wires. Instructions and more
information here.
The
lower picture shows the infrared detector on the front (the black
cylinder) and the blue LED on the back (the clear device).
Creature Shroud and Shield Kit
$18Made from black natural fiberboard, as per the original part. These parts are precision cut, and the shroud fits a little closer to the playfield lens than the original. Includes a spare lamp shield.
$22A 20W halogen bulb, holder, screws and spacers to replace the inefficient bulb and reflector in the original design. A great way to add punch to a blue hologram. Consumes slightly less power than the original solution. The kit includes the screws and spacers you need to install it.
$50
Bring your gumball into the light. Has six high-power red LEDs that flash when the gumball is loaded, and four high-brightness white LEDs that light with the GI. This really does brighten up what is otherwise a rather dark corner of the machine. The kit includes a modified gumball divider, and disconnects for the lamp board and the under playfield wiring. Installation requires basic soldering. No cutting is required. Check out the review at Retroblast!
Twilight Zone Gumball Lamp Kit - Warm White $50.00
As above, but built with warm white LEDs, which are a better match for a clock with incandescent lamps.
White LEDs and resistors for Twilight Zone clock upgrade $7.50.00
Four LEDs and resistors for upgrading the clock. The LEDs have ground ends for better light dispersion.
Warm White LEDs and resistors for Twilight Zone clock upgrade $7.50Four LEDs and resistors for upgrading the clock. These LEDs have a less blue look than regular white LEDs. They are a better match for the lamps already on the machine. The LEDs have ground ends for better light dispersion.
$20These parts replace the original nylon pieces, which deteriorate and break apart after a while. These replacement parts are machined from Delrin. I recommend replacing all three parts at the same time - unless you like working on the heads.
Get them from Bay Area Amusements.
1/2"
Nylon Spacer $0.50 each3/4" Nylon Spacer 0.50 each
These spacers are a great replacement for the nylon spacers that Williams used. They are slightly different in shape, but are also a nice white color. Here's the story on these.
substitute for Williams P/N 20-9658-2
$2.00These stainless steel screws are great replacements for the slotted screws used on the threaded posts on older WPC machines. They have a large, flat head that is a great appearance and functional replacement for the originals. The bag contains 5 1/4" screws and 5 1/2" screws. The picture on the right shows the original screw on the left, and the replacement on the right.
Used on some posts and ramps. Again, stainless steel. The bag contains 5 1/4" screws and 5 1/2" screws.
These screws are used to hold parts under the playfield in WPC and WPC-S machines. The bag contains 5 3/8" screws and 5 1/2" screws, all in stainless steel. The 1/2" (Williams p/n 4106-01114-08) screws are for thicker parts such as coil brackets. the shorter 3/8" parts replace the yellow #6 (Williams p/n 4106-01115-06Y) screws that Williams used for lamp brackets and other thin pieces. A 1/2" screw will penetrate the playfield surface, so be careful!
I color the heads of my shorter screws with a Sharpie before I use them. Red's a good color.
These screws are used to hold parts under the playfield in WPC-95 machines. The bag contains 5 3/8" screws and 5 1/2" screws, all in stainless steel. The 1/2" (Williams p/n 4808-01175-24) screws are for thicker parts such as coil brackets. the shorter 3/8" parts replace the yellow 7/16" (Williams p/n 4808-01175-07Y) screws that Williams used for lamp brackets and other thin pieces. A 1/2" screw will penetrate the playfield surface, so be careful!
I color the heads of my shorter screws with a Sharpie before I use them. Red's a good color.
Four LEDs and resistors for upgrading the clock. The LEDs have ground ends for better light dispersion.
Four LEDs and resistors for upgrading the clock. These LEDs have a less blue look than regular white LEDs. They are a better match for the lamps already on the machine. The LEDs have ground ends for better light dispersion.